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初感徽州，是在路上。车窗外，微雨轻拂，青山共长天一色，天然一幅水墨画。
置身徽州，处处尤叹。这里山绕清溪水绕城，白云碧嶂画难成；这里青砖小瓦马头墙，回廊挂落花格窗；这里山水有情，路桥着意。
行走徽州，一生痴绝。这里保留了相对完整的徽派艺术、建筑、风俗等人文景观，浓浓的徽州文化渗透角角落落。
徽州，一个千年相传的文化符号。感受徽州文化，更要从美食上领略——徽菜。
If you want to have in-depth experience of Huizhouculture, a time-honored cultural icon, you should notmiss Anhui cuisine.
Anhui Cuisine, a perfect combination of color, taste,and nutrition, is one of the eight major Chinesecuisines. It was originated in the Qin and Han dynasties, thrived in the Tang and Song dynasties, and flourished in the Ming and Qing dynasties.
“Anhui Cuisine can be represented by three kinds of typical dishes—Yipin Hot Pot, Stinky Mandarin Fish and Stinky Tofu, as well as Gyrophora, Chukar, and Grouper.” said Wang Zhiguo, the inheritor of Anhui Cuisine said in Jixi county, the home of Anhui Cuisine.
行走徽州，一生痴绝。这里保留了相对完整的徽派艺术、建筑、风俗等人文景观，浓浓的徽州文化渗透角角落落。
徽州，一个千年相传的文化符号。感受徽州文化，更要从美食上领略——徽菜。
If you want to have in-depth experience of Huizhouculture, a time-honored cultural icon, you should notmiss Anhui cuisine.
Anhui Cuisine, a perfect combination of color, taste,and nutrition, is one of the eight major Chinesecuisines. It was originated in the Qin and Han dynasties, thrived in the Tang and Song dynasties, and flourished in the Ming and Qing dynasties.
“Anhui Cuisine can be represented by three kinds of typical dishes—Yipin Hot Pot, Stinky Mandarin Fish and Stinky Tofu, as well as Gyrophora, Chukar, and Grouper.” said Wang Zhiguo, the inheritor of Anhui Cuisine said in Jixi county, the home of Anhui Cuisine.
徽菜的“一二三”
徽菜，中国八大菜系之一。起源于秦汉，兴于唐宋，盛于明清，在清朝中末期达到鼎盛，其特点是重油重色、重火功重食补。如今，在中国徽菜之乡——绩溪县，每年都会举办国际徽菜饮食文化节。
“徽菜的代表菜，我们归纳为‘一二三’，一是胡适一品锅，二是臭鳜鱼臭豆腐，三是石耳石鸡石斑鱼”。中国徽菜传承人汪志国介绍，来绩溪旅游，必不可少都会点这些代表菜品。汪志国从事厨师一行数十年，是“中国徽菜名店”聚和圆酒店负责人，在继承和创新徽菜上，颇有建树。说起徽菜，如数家珍。
Hu Shi, a famous Anhui litterateur in the 20th century, served his friend Liang Shiqiu, another well-known litterateur, with Yipin Hot Pot when the latter was visitinghim. Therefore, Yipin Hot Pot is also called Hu Shi Hot Pot.
Liang described this dish as follows, “The soup in the big iron pot was still boiling when it was brought onto the table.
There were layers of chicken, duck, and tofu puff laid on vegetables, with some egg dumplings dotted on the top.”
“徽菜的代表菜，我们归纳为‘一二三’，一是胡适一品锅，二是臭鳜鱼臭豆腐，三是石耳石鸡石斑鱼”。中国徽菜传承人汪志国介绍，来绩溪旅游，必不可少都会点这些代表菜品。汪志国从事厨师一行数十年，是“中国徽菜名店”聚和圆酒店负责人，在继承和创新徽菜上，颇有建树。说起徽菜，如数家珍。
Hu Shi, a famous Anhui litterateur in the 20th century, served his friend Liang Shiqiu, another well-known litterateur, with Yipin Hot Pot when the latter was visitinghim. Therefore, Yipin Hot Pot is also called Hu Shi Hot Pot.
Liang described this dish as follows, “The soup in the big iron pot was still boiling when it was brought onto the table.
There were layers of chicken, duck, and tofu puff laid on vegetables, with some egg dumplings dotted on the top.”
百味合一
“一只大铁锅，口径差不多有二尺，热腾腾地端上桌，里面还滚沸，一层鸡，一层鸭，一层油豆腐，点缀着一些蛋皮饺，最底下是萝卜、青菜。味道极好。”在胡适家中吃一品锅的梁实秋这样描述。随着胡适的声名远扬，一品锅也被誉为“胡适一品锅”。
而最初，一品锅的来历也让人津津乐道。相传，清乾隆帝下江南路过绩溪上庄，求食于农家。当时刚过中秋，村民家中留有几盘吃剩的菜，便将所有菜一锅烧。乾隆尝过，感觉此菜百味合一，味道特别好，问其菜名，农家随口说道：一锅端。乾隆觉得此名不雅，遂起名为“一品锅”，此后，“一品锅”便作为一道正式的菜流传下来。
It is said that Yipin Hot Pot was named by Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty. He once asked for food when he passed by a farmhouse in Jixi, and the host cooked all the leftovers in one pot. Qianlong was impressed by its rich taste, so he himself named it—Yipin Hot Pot (which means you can savor the tastes of various food in just one pot).
而最初，一品锅的来历也让人津津乐道。相传，清乾隆帝下江南路过绩溪上庄，求食于农家。当时刚过中秋，村民家中留有几盘吃剩的菜，便将所有菜一锅烧。乾隆尝过，感觉此菜百味合一，味道特别好，问其菜名，农家随口说道：一锅端。乾隆觉得此名不雅，遂起名为“一品锅”，此后，“一品锅”便作为一道正式的菜流传下来。
It is said that Yipin Hot Pot was named by Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty. He once asked for food when he passed by a farmhouse in Jixi, and the host cooked all the leftovers in one pot. Qianlong was impressed by its rich taste, so he himself named it—Yipin Hot Pot (which means you can savor the tastes of various food in just one pot).
菜中“隐者”
以臭命名的美食，都是低调的炫耀。徽菜中的臭鳜鱼和臭豆腐，便是菜中“隐者”。桃花流水鳜鱼肥，鳜鱼吹起桃花浪……自古以来，鳜鱼因肉质细嫩，刺少肉多，深受食客喜爱，是宴席上的“贵客”。
鳜鱼在徽菜中做法别具一格。不吃新鲜，先行腌制。后打十字花刀，热锅冷油，煎至微黄，捞出，煸香五花肉丁和姜蒜辣椒，佐以高汤调味，小火轻烧，大火收汁，好了！一盘色泽饱满、鲜香微辣的鳜鱼出场了，味道还很独特。
臭鳜鱼的臭，有一段心酸又温暖的故事。古代徽州，丈夫赶考，妻子包两条鳜鱼放被里，丈夫直到考完才发现鱼已臭，想扔又不忍，恐负妻子一片心，便腌腌晒晒再红烧，不曾想，味道鲜美没得挑。从此，徽菜家族多了一员大将。
臭豆腐，几乎是吃货的沦陷菜。炭火炉点上，平底锅架好，一块一块夹到锅内，煎至两面金黄，盛于白盘内，配以红红的辣椒酱，赏心悦目中，香气扑鼻，吸一口，已是饿了。迫不及待夹一块，蘸上辣椒酱，好一个外脆里嫩，鲜辣可口。
Stinky Mandarin Fish and Stinky Tofu are both underestimated delicacy. The smellier the food is, the more delicious it tastes.
The authentically flavored mandarin fish must be pickled first. Then, put the fish into a hot pan containing cold oil, and fry it until it turns brown. After that, flavor it with specially-made soup, simmer it for several minutes, and turn to high heat until all sauce is absorbed. Now you have a plate of delicious mandarin fish.
Almost all foodies cannot resist the temptation of Stinky Tofu. Take a bite of the golden tofu topped off with red chili sauce, and it will definitely tickle your taste buds for being crispy outside but tender inside.
鳜鱼在徽菜中做法别具一格。不吃新鲜，先行腌制。后打十字花刀，热锅冷油，煎至微黄，捞出，煸香五花肉丁和姜蒜辣椒，佐以高汤调味，小火轻烧，大火收汁，好了！一盘色泽饱满、鲜香微辣的鳜鱼出场了，味道还很独特。
臭鳜鱼的臭，有一段心酸又温暖的故事。古代徽州，丈夫赶考，妻子包两条鳜鱼放被里，丈夫直到考完才发现鱼已臭，想扔又不忍，恐负妻子一片心，便腌腌晒晒再红烧，不曾想，味道鲜美没得挑。从此，徽菜家族多了一员大将。
臭豆腐，几乎是吃货的沦陷菜。炭火炉点上，平底锅架好，一块一块夹到锅内，煎至两面金黄，盛于白盘内，配以红红的辣椒酱，赏心悦目中，香气扑鼻，吸一口，已是饿了。迫不及待夹一块，蘸上辣椒酱，好一个外脆里嫩，鲜辣可口。
Stinky Mandarin Fish and Stinky Tofu are both underestimated delicacy. The smellier the food is, the more delicious it tastes.
The authentically flavored mandarin fish must be pickled first. Then, put the fish into a hot pan containing cold oil, and fry it until it turns brown. After that, flavor it with specially-made soup, simmer it for several minutes, and turn to high heat until all sauce is absorbed. Now you have a plate of delicious mandarin fish.
Almost all foodies cannot resist the temptation of Stinky Tofu. Take a bite of the golden tofu topped off with red chili sauce, and it will definitely tickle your taste buds for being crispy outside but tender inside.
大自然的馈赠
绿树丛荫、沟壑纵横、气候宜人的徽州自然环境，为徽菜提供了不尽的原料，石斑鱼便是大自然的馈赠。石斑鱼的做法有多种，经过汪志国的创新，一道让人见之不忘的“书香石斑鱼”面世了。取野生石斑鱼12 条，处理干净后，打花刀腌渍入味，在炭火炉上烘至肉质酥香，表皮金黄时，用锡纸包好，再裹以牛皮纸点缀。这道造型优雅、酥香爽口的菜，就这样，先从外形上征服你，再从味道上俘获你。
石耳，江南等地特有的药食同源的食材，具有养阴润肺、凉血止血、清热解毒的功效。当老鸭汤遇到石耳，在厨师的牵线下，熬制出了香醇滋补的汤汁。另一道红烧石鸡，也鲜嫩可口，咸香味浓。
除了“一二三”，徽菜还有火腿炖甲鱼、黄山炖鸽、问政山笋、徽州圆子、方腊鱼、中和汤等名菜佳肴。
石耳，江南等地特有的药食同源的食材，具有养阴润肺、凉血止血、清热解毒的功效。当老鸭汤遇到石耳，在厨师的牵线下，熬制出了香醇滋补的汤汁。另一道红烧石鸡，也鲜嫩可口，咸香味浓。
除了“一二三”，徽菜还有火腿炖甲鱼、黄山炖鸽、问政山笋、徽州圆子、方腊鱼、中和汤等名菜佳肴。
Grouper, Gyrophora, and Chukar are all gifts from nature. The first recommended special is Steamed Grouper. It has unique appearance and delicious taste. Another dish with Anhui’ssignature is Stewed Duck with Gyrophora, which is very nutritious because Gyrophora can also be taken as a tonic. The third Anhui-featured dish, Braised Chukar in Soy Sauce, will be the best option for you if you prefer strong salty flavor.
版权须知：未经本刊书面许可，任何人或单位不得以任何形式转载、摘编本刊图文内容。
文字：殷艳萍
图片：李慧 黄洋洋
编辑：刘润宇
由安徽省文化和旅游厅创办、安徽出版集团所属安徽画报社出版的《安徽文旅》中英文专辑，以“展示文旅业态，引领文旅风尚；讲述文旅故事，树立文旅标杆”为定位，旨在强化安徽文化旅游宣传，打造安徽文旅品牌，促进全域旅游发展，加快创新型文化和旅游强省建设。
《安徽文旅》中英文专辑以精致、精美、惊艳、精彩的风格追求，吸引海内外的读者。《安徽文旅》中英文专辑分送国内有关党政机关、文化和旅游部门、重点旅行商，并在省内旅游景区、旅游饭店、文化场所、机场、高铁站等场所投放，投递至我国驻外机构、外国驻华机构等，境外重点旅行商等。
《安徽文旅》中英文专辑以精致、精美、惊艳、精彩的风格追求，吸引海内外的读者。《安徽文旅》中英文专辑分送国内有关党政机关、文化和旅游部门、重点旅行商，并在省内旅游景区、旅游饭店、文化场所、机场、高铁站等场所投放，投递至我国驻外机构、外国驻华机构等，境外重点旅行商等。
